Combating Mothball Odor
by Jeff Bishop
January 4, 2012
Every year, we get calls from cleaners or consumers wanting
to know what to do about mothballs or flakes that were used in excess. Usually,
these situations evolve from fear of damage that might be caused by moths,
beetles, silverfish that feed on protein fiber in silk or wool clothing or
rugs. They also are used in attempts to
keep squirrels, snakes or other non-domesticated animals out of attics or
crawlspaces.
Where a few mothballs or flakes would do the job, these
well-intended but overzealous consumers toss in two or three boxes of the
material.
Whoa! Talk about
odor!
High concentrations of mothball vapor can cause respiratory
irritation. Ingesting mothballs,
especially by small children, can cause serious illness or even death.
When consumers can no longer tolerate the overwhelming
mothball odor, they usually call a professional, who’s supposed to have a magic
bullet for relief. Tain’t that
simple!
So what’s in mothballs?
The original chemical used for mothballs is naphthalene, a
combustible dry solvent. An alternative
formula for mothballs contains 1,4 dichlorobenzene. Both produce the strong “mothball” odor. Some formulas even contain a little camphor,
which has been used as an insect repellent for years. The vapor released from mothballs over time
as they sublimate (change from a solid to a vapor without going through a vapor
phase) can kill insects, silverfish, larvae or other small pests.
So just what does a professional deodorizing technician do
when excessive mothball odor is encountered?
Before discussing procedures, let’s go back to the basic principles of
deodorizing…again!
Remove the source as practical. Collect the mothballs that are lying around
or vacuum up moth flakes or crystals, as practical.
Clean surfaces affected by direct contact with the
mothballs, as practical. Basically, a
general purpose cleaner or “wall-washing” formula, with a little fragrance
added, will do the job of cleaning minor residue from mothballs.
Recreate the conditions of odor penetration with an
appropriate odor counteractant. Since
mothballs are organic chemicals, ozone gas is especially appropriate for use
here.
Seal surfaces as required.
Seldom do we have to employ this principle, but it should at least be
considered.
All four deodorizing principles should be very familiar to
professional cleaners or restorers by now.
Actual procedures for mothball odor include, but are not necessarily
limited to:
- Communicate with property owners to
ascertain exactly how the mothball application occurred.
- As an engineering control, ventilate the affected
area. Don’t hesitate to uses vent fans
in the structure as well and, weather and security permitting, open windows and
doors as appropriate. If it isn’t
practical to open affected areas for ventilation, use a negative air machine
(NAM), which exhausts to the outside of the building to produce negative
pressure within the work area and confine the odor.
- If the affected area is one or two rooms in a
house, it may be prudent to contain that area with four-mil polyethylene
plastic sheeting, and place the containment under negative pressure.
- Protect yourself.
Neoprene gloves and an organic vapor respirator, at a minimum, are
appropriate.
- Considering deodorizing principle one above,
collect and remove all the mothballs you can locate, or vacuum up flakes or
crystals. It’s a good idea to exhaust
the vacuum outside the work area, since air passing through the vacuum will
increase odor in the work area. Of
course, empty the vacuum’s collection bag or chamber soon after vacuuming is
complete.
- It may even be prudent to remove affected
insulation in attics, or on ground soil in crawlspaces when moth flakes or
crystals are used extensively. Use
professional judgment here.
- Consider cleaning affected and surrounding
surfaces (e.g., walls, fixtures, flooring – especially carpet) in the affected
area, as appropriate. A general-purpose
cleaner or wall washing compound with general-purpose deodorant added can be
used on minimally or non-porous surfaces, and fabrics can be cleaned with
appropriate cleaners as well. Hot water
extraction is recommended on fabrics.
- Air out the area, turn off vent fans and, after
about 30 minutes, “sniff out” the area to see if the mothball odor has been
diminished. In severe odor situations, it may be prudent to confine the area
and set up an ozone generator for 24-48 hours.
Mothball odor is organic and ozone is a powerful oxidizer of organic
malodor. Remember that mothballs produce
a chemical odor, rather than microbial odor, so sanitizers or disinfectants
will be of little use here.
- After appropriate time, turn off the ozone unit
and aerate the area for 10-20 minutes.
Then, turn off vent fans and close up the area for 20-30 minutes. At that point, technicians should enter and
“sniff out” the area to see if the odor has diminished.
- If the mothball odor persists, continue with ozone
application, followed by ventilation and evaluation until the odor level is
acceptable. Eventually, this odor will
dissipate.
- Depending on the time of the year (summer or
winter), an alternative or supplement to using concentrated ozone is to
ventilate the area continuously for a few weeks until the mothballs sublimate
or dissipate completely. Obviously, hot
weather conditions speed sublimation, while cold weather slows it. But continuous ventilation is the key to
success here.
- When the mothball odor is substantially diminished
or eliminated completely, it may be appropriate to leave a time-release
deodorant in the structure’s HVAC system to provide a pleasant residual
fragrance.
Probably the greatest source of concern and expense for
consumers is damage caused by moths on high-value wool or silk area rugs. There are time-tested chemical compounds
designed to inhibit and retard wool disintegration from organic sources, such
as moths or beetles. These products
(e.g., Fabpro’s Wool Protector) contain magnesium silicofluoride, which is a
poison. However, deodorizing
technicians should not make claims about these products’ ability to act as a
pesticide. Pesticide claims require
government testing and registration, which is a prolonged and expensive
process.
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